COP 30: The View From Outside

Fred H. Walti, II

Belém, Brazil.  It’s been ten years since the historic “Paris Agreement,” in which most of the planet’s countries signed an agreement to reach self-determined emissions reduction goals.  Since the US hasn’t sent an official delegation to this year’s ten-year anniversary COP, and most of the mainstream media haven’t sent crews, and there is a minimal presence of US companies, I thought it was even more important to show the flag of those of us who care, whether part of an official delegation or not. 

You would think it would be easy to get into the official proceedings in the “Blue Zone,” given the dire need for climate supporters, but it isn’t.  Bottom line, unless you know someone or someone knows you, you’ll be stuck out here in the “Green Zone,” which is the public, anyone-can-come part of the COP.  Part cleantech expo, part meeting of the green washers, part community gathering and protest place, the Green Zone sits across the grassy field that separates those who know from those who don’t. It feels ironic that an event intended to galvanize universal engagement still often divides insiders from the wider public. You’d think we would have learned that we need everyone engaged.

The progress on climate change and meeting the goals of the Paris Agreement is largely summed up in the President of Brazil’s formal letter introducing COP:  he urges us to go “from breakdown to breakthrough,” reflecting the desperate times we’re in.  Here’s a pretty balanced look at the progress and lack of progress we’ve made since the Paris Agreement 10 Years Since Paris.

  • At the entrance to COP 30. Still nursing the broken left leg.

  • Lots and lots of people

  • Typical of the tone of Green Zone exhibitors

  • Lots of well-attended panels. This one is titled, “Innovations from Brazil for Universal Access to Energy,” sponsored by Schneider Electric.

  • Technology and innovation weren’t a big part of this year’s COP

  • The mighty Amazon almost at the point where it meets the Atlantic

  • Events were happening in many venues. This one is in a “bioeconomic” incubator in an old warehouse along the Amazon River

  • Typical night scene held across Belém. This one was on the river front

  • Just around the corner from a slew of small boats bringing the day’s coffee bean harvest. These guys were hauling baskets full of acai coffee beans

  • While less than 100 feet further down the wharf one of the workers takes a bath in the Amazon

  • We stayed five minutes from the COP venue. View from our apt.

  • Down the street, the best coffee from a “café” made up from a portable kitchen.

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Belém is on a peninsula where the mighty Amazon reaches the Atlantic.  At this point, the Amazon is dirty brown and pretty damn choppy.  The small mini tugs cruising up and down the shore, displaying their outdoor billboards, look ready to go under at any minute.  Naval ships, ready for some action (have they been talking with Venezuelans?), bob in the current.  While choppy and windy, the real action is on shore. COP30 is in town.

Every part of this 1.3 million population city is part of the COP “celebration.” There are signs, events, parties, and COP’ers all over the city.  Getting off the airplane at the Belém airport is an experience in itself – even the moveable gate from the plane to the airport is alive with green neon flashing lights and COP 30 signage up and down. EVERYONE who gets off all aircraft receives a canvas bag with COP30 literature.

It strikes me that this is a city that’s perfect for COP, with the Amazonia just up the river.  It feels right, unlike the past two COPs in oil-rich Dubai and Azerbaijan.  The welfare of the planet, its biosphere, and the people who depend on them takes the Amazon’s health seriously.  Nonetheless, the Amazon is under attack from all sides of commerce – big companies, jungle bandits, unlicensed farmers, et al — are cutting big swaths out of the Amazon forests.

Those trying to save the Amazonia are the cause of major and minor protests occurring in the streets and convention halls across town.  It’s refreshing to see people protesting for climate change not get shot, arrested, or deported.  I’m kind of digging Belém:)

The Green Zone is jam-packed, with lines around the block to get in (it’s free but capacity-constrained, so gates are periodically shut). The place has a vibrancy.  There are dozens of mini panel discussions, presentations, expos, and exhibits – and they’re all packed!

There are lots and lots of displays of indigenous culture in addition to people walking around in what is native dress.  My ability to take all this in is limited, as most of the events are in Portuguese, which is a good thing, as the Green Zone is meant for Brazilians, not us visitors—and Brazilians are showing up in force. While I’m getting better with Google Translate, I still can’t keep up. But it’s really not necessary, as I’m here to be part of the cheering crowd and get the vibe of the place.

Negotiating climate pacts must be challenging work as Belém comes alive at night. Almost every restaurant of any note is booked for private parties. Clubs and social spaces along the river have made the place into a beach scene with COP-esque cabanas.  Lots of drinking and generally having a good time.  I speak from experience that a cold Corona is best enjoyed on the banks of the Amazon.   Sitting in my “beach chair”, with a cold one in hand, I’m thinking maybe not all is lost, at least in this one moment.

I didn’t come all the way to Belém to not see the Amazon and Amazonia.  Next week we’re going upriver to see for ourselves.